One of the most popular crops grown in vegetable gardens and summer cottages of Russia is potatoes. The success of its cultivation depends on the region, since it is the climatic conditions that determine the nuances of the choice of variety, the time and method of planting it. How to get a good potato crop in the suburbs, we will understand further.
When to plant?
According to the lunar calendar, this year the most favorable time for planting potatoes in the Moscow region is April, May and June inclusive. It is during these months that constant weather conditions come to the region. Since culture does not like cold weather, there is no need to rush with its landing. So, to ensure quick shoots, you will need to wait at least a month from the day of warming.
With regard to specific days of landing, the most favorable according to the lunar calendar are the days of the growing moon, when nature is gaining strength for rapid growth and development. These are the following days:
- April 12 and 13, when the Moon is in the sign of Pisces, which perfectly affects the meatiness of the tubers;
- May 1, when the moon is in the sign of Scorpio, which contributes to the rapid growth of the plant;
- May 4, 5 and 6 are days that will allow you to get a plentiful harvest.
In the case of planting potatoes at a soil temperature of + 11 ... + 12 degrees, the first seedlings will appear on day 23, at a temperature of + 14 ... + 15 degrees - on 17-18 days, etc.
At the same time, the following conditions will help determine the correct landing time:
- the optimum air temperature is + 12 ... + 15 degrees (the kidneys of the eyes can “wake up” even at a temperature of 5 degrees, but to prevent potato diseases it is worth waiting for warming);
- optimal soil moisture - not more than 75%, because otherwise the fruits will be prone to decay.
If during the development of seedlings and at the beginning of the formation of tops, the need for moisture is minimal, then from the moment of flowering and the appearance of tops it significantly increases.
It should be noted that many experienced gardeners also determine the favorable planting time according to popular beliefs:
- the flowering of apricots and bird cherry started (if the soil on the site has not warmed up, the flowers on the trees are closed);
- small leaves appeared on birch trees (this indicates that the soil has already warmed up);
- dandelions formed buds.
If all of these factors are observed, then potatoes can already be buried. It is also worth considering that tubers cannot be planted during the periods of the full moon and new moon, because at this time they are poorly adapted and exposed to disease.
In general, many professional farmers recommend planting potatoes not at the May holidays, but later from May 8 to 17. This is a more favorable time than the end of April, since it is possible to provide for the return of frost.
Read more about how to plant potatoes in open ground - read here.
Suitable varieties
The Moscow region belongs to the zone of problem farming, since it is not always characterized by warm summers. In general, cold rainy days are more characteristic of the middle band, which can occur during the period of active development of root crops.
So, mid-season and late varieties should be discarded, as they will not have time to ripen in the conditions of the region. More acceptable are early varieties - early, early and mid-early. These include:
- Early rose;
- Penza precocity;
- Convento;
- Favorite
- The wizard;
- Luck;
- Blue eye;
- Advanced;
- Lorch;
- Cast iron
All of these varieties of tableware, high productivity, strong resistance to various pests and diseases. They give an early harvest and when grown in the suburbs.
Choosing a landing place
Potatoes yield a good harvest on sandy and loamy soils. It is important to consider which crops used to grow in the garden, since non-observance of crop rotation rules leads to the defeat of tubers by various diseases. So, it is unacceptable to grow potatoes in the garden where the following crops used to grow:
- nightshade (tomato, potato, eggplant, pepper, etc.);
- sorghum;
- sunflower.
Favorable precursors are such plants:
- cucumber;
- legumes;
- cabbage;
- pumpkin.
As for the safe neighborhood, next to potatoes you can plant:
- carrot;
- beets;
- calendula
- legumes.
The listed cultures are not only harmless to root crops, but also useful, since they saturate the soil with useful microelements.
The site itself, where it is planned to plant potatoes, should be in a sunny and open place, where shadows from the trees do not fall. At the same time, tubers should not be planted in lowlands, since they can rot during growth due to high soil moisture.
Preparatory work
To get a good harvest, first of all, you need to responsibly approach the preparatory work.
Location on
Site preparation is carried out in two stages:
- After harvest. As soon as the crop is harvested from the site, you need to dig up the soil on the bayonet of the shovel. It is advisable to add fertilizers in the form of humus or compost at the rate of 10 kg per 1 sq. m. In addition, it is worth making ash at the rate of 1 liter per 1 sq. km. m
- In the spring. With the onset of spring, you also need to loosen the area to a depth of 15 cm. It is recommended that you use a pitchfork. Turning the layers when loosening is not necessary.
It is important to conduct such preparation in the area where the potatoes will be planted, since other crops require different preparation.
Seed preparation
If potatoes are planted in the suburbs, the preparation of tubers should begin in the 20th of March. It is necessary to select healthy and whole material, which should be left for landscaping in the sun at a temperature of + 20 ... + 24 degrees. They can be laid out in small drawers in 3-4 layers. Under the sunlight, a toxic substance forms inside the tubers, which will contribute to their long-term storage.
After 2 weeks, the tubers will be ready for planting. During this time, it is recommended to spray them with water in order to maintain the healthy development of the sprouts. When they appear, the seed needs to be removed in a cool place for stabbing.
Many people wonder whether it is possible to plant potatoes with long processes that appear when storing tubers in a very warm room. The answer is unequivocal - no, because in this case the fetus will have to spend more effort on germination, due to which its elasticity may suffer. So, if the length of the sprouts exceeds 10 cm, they are unsuitable for planting.
It is required to cut off the longest shoots, leaving only those whose length is up to 3 cm. It is recommended not to break off the shoots in the upper part of the tubers.
Immediately before planting the tubers in the open ground, they need to be sorted again and treated with dressing agents. For example, a day before planting, you can conduct the following preparations:
- Dissolve 1 tsp in 10 l of water. sulfate and boric acid. The solution should have a dark pink color.
- Dip the box with sprouted potatoes in the prepared solution for 10-15 minutes.
- Process the remaining boxes in the same solution.
- Prepared potatoes leave to dry under a canopy.
Methods for planting sprouted root crops
There are various planting schemes for potatoes, many of which are also acceptable for implementation in the climatic conditions of the Moscow Region. We will get acquainted with them in detail.
Combs
This is a Dutch technology that is used to plant potatoes on hills from the ground. Especially often it is used in areas with clay soils and closely passing groundwater. In this case, the tubers receive the right amount of heat and oxygen, without being at risk of decay.
During a ridge planting, the plot is processed using a tractor, during which embankments about 15 cm high are formed. Next, the potatoes are laid on the hills, and ridges are poured on top. The tubers themselves are planted according to this scheme:
- the distance between the holes is 30 cm;
- the distance between the rows is 75 cm;
- height of the finished ridge - 35 cm.
The disadvantage of this technology is the quick drying of the soil, therefore, in sultry times, the plant faces overheating. To prevent this, you should water the plant more often, and in the hottest hours cover the area with a light cloth. In the case of severe shedding of the soil, the rows should be fixed with boards.
Trenches
In the Moscow Region, most gardeners plant potatoes in small ditches to preserve the moisture necessary for the development of the plant. The site is processed in the same way as in the case of ridges, and root crops in the grooves are laid according to the following parameters:
- the distance between the holes is 30 cm;
- the distance between the rows is 70 cm;
- the depth of the holes is 11 cm.
Trench planting is not used on beds close to groundwater, because in the case of cool summers the tubers will be exposed to fungi and root rot. In this case, in the event of such a planting, special attention will have to be paid to care, namely mulching and loosening.
Smooth fit ("under the shovel")
It is a classic technology that retains its relevance, despite the complexity. In this case, work on the bed is carried out by two people: one - digs holes, and the other - puts tubers in them. The landing scheme is as follows:
- the distance between the holes is 35 cm;
- the distance between the rows is 65 cm;
- the depth of the holes is 12 cm.
To achieve a smooth plantation, gardeners often mark the beds using a rope. Such a scheme is often used in the case of loose and water-intensive soil.
For the active growth of plants, tubers should be planted in a checkerboard pattern.
Box landing
Such planting is time-consuming, but it involves a minimum of care for the plant throughout the growing season. The difficulty is that you need to create boxes. The advantage is that they will last for many years. Boxes-beds are prepared according to the following scheme:
- height - 25 cm;
- width - up to 120 cm;
- length - at your discretion.
The boxes must be filled with a mixture of soil with organic matter, and then left for several weeks before disembarkation. After that, grooves or holes are prepared on the surface of the soil, where the tubers are laid out, and preferably in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the holes is at least 30 cm.
Boxing is often used in the case of sites with adverse conditions. Boxes-beds remain suitable for more than one year, so every season you can just add the nutrient mixture, and in the fall season sow the box with green manure and leave them for the winter.
Features of planting sprouted potatoes
Regardless of the planting pattern, the key feature is how to spread the potatoes - sprouts up or down. Traditionally, tubers are planted with sprouts up so that they stretch out faster and become leafy. However, in this matter it is better to proceed from the following two nuances:
- if potatoes are planted shallowly, the optimal arrangement of tubers is sprouts up;
- if you plan an early planting, when the earth has not yet had time to warm up properly, it is worth spreading the tubers sprouts down.
Potatoes are laid out down by sprouts in connection with the following pluses:
- sprouts grow in different directions, not accumulating in one heap and not interfering with each other to get the right food;
- the first leaves appear a little later, so they can more easily bear the threat of frost.
Of course, this method has its drawbacks:
- you can’t plant potatoes deeply, since sprouts already have a long way to go;
- the soil should be quite moist, so you need to mulch the soil with a layer of grass;
- potatoes ripen later than when planted sprouts down.
If there are doubts about the method of planting, it is worth laying out part of the tubers sprouts up, and part - sprouts down. At the end of the season, it will become clear which method is more acceptable in your garden.
Landing with siderates
Siderata or green fertilizers are plants that are grown for further cultivation in the ground. They improve the structure of the soil, enrich it with useful elements and inhibit the growth of weeds. Substances such as nitrogen and phosphorus contribute to the development of potatoes. They are found in large quantities in legumes. These include:
- spring vetch;
- peas;
- clover;
- alfalfa.
Siderata such as wheat, mustard, colza, etc. are also recommended for planting. They will not only enrich the soil, but also prevent its washing out and blowing off. Special attention can be paid to white mustard, since it has another important property - it repels pests. For this purpose, beans are also planted between rows of potatoes.
When using green manure, it is important to consider that they should only be sown in very well prepared soil 1.5 months before the onset of cold weather. As a rule, from 800 g to 2 kg of green manure seeds are sufficient for one hundredth of the land. Care for them is to regularly water the grown plants.
If it was not possible to sow plants in the fall, this can be done in early May 2-3 weeks before the expected planting of potatoes. This time should be enough for the siderates to rot and enrich the soil.
Secrets of landing for the winter
Many residents of the Moscow region are increasingly planting potatoes in early autumn. It has already been established that the winter harvest is strong and plentiful, but tubers are not always able to survive the periods of little snow, characteristic of a milder winter. So, you need to more carefully approach the choice of landing method.
For the winter, culture should be planted using one of two methods - in trenches or “under the shovel”. In the case of comb technology, tubers will be subject to seasonal differences: under the influence of wind, the hills will crumble, and raw materials will instantly freeze due to low temperatures. After planting potatoes, it is important to thoroughly mulch the soil, since the maximum warming layer is a guarantee of a safe wintering.
Planting tubers without sprouts
According to classical technologies, before planting in open ground, tubers need to be kept in a warm room for germination of sprouts, which will provide better fertility of root crops. However, experienced gardeners believe that with favorable soil and stable climatic conditions, you can do without preliminary germination. So, the sprouts will appear directly in the soil, and then the leaves will come out and the crop will appear.
Planting potatoes without sprouts is performed in the following order:
- Go through the tubers, removing low-quality seed. Recall that holding potatoes for 1-2 weeks in a warm room is not required, since planting is done without sprouts.
- Plant potatoes using any selected technology. Since there are no shoots, tubers can be thrown into the holes on either side.
Planted potatoes require proper fertilizer and hilling. Equally important is regular watering.
It is important to consider that with this technology it takes longer for the fruit to ripen. If the planting dates were violated, then the sprouts will not germinate, and they will not succeed in obtaining the desired crop.
Depthless landing technology
This is not a new technology, although gardeners rarely resort to it. In this way, breeders often used to propagate a valuable variety. They separated the sprouts from the tubers and planted them in insulated soil. Later it was experimentally established that with such a planting, the quantity and quality of the crop is the same as when planting sprouted tubers.
When using this technology, it is important to consider that there are two types of sprouts:
- Light. Grow when root crops are aged in the sun.
- Shadow. Formed during storage of potatoes in the basement.
Shadow shoots are more often chosen because they have a delicate structure and can withstand low temperatures. Light sprouts are stronger, and therefore have better productivity.
Planting sprouts is made immediately after their separation from the tubers. The optimal length is 6-8 cm.
Soil preparation
It is carried out up to 30-45 days before landing in the following order:
- Fold a drawer of small sizes from the boards, which should be installed on the south windowsill.
- Cover the bottom of the box with sand, on which to put the cups with the nutrient mixture. Below, it is also worthwhile to arrange a drainage in the form of sand to protect the soil from drying out.
- Pour the soil in a cup with a solution of boric acid or potassium permanganate.
Landing and care
For planting, you need to select seed tubers. It is better to give preference to varieties with an average ripening period. They need to be landed in several stages:
- Use the first row of cups (located closer to the window) for planting seeds. Make holes in them and plant the tubers.
- To break off the sprouts when their length reaches 6-7 cm, and transplant into the cups of the next two rows.
- Water the seeds 2-3 times a week, and after rooting, transplant directly to a permanent place.
Sprouts from sprouts need to be fertilized regularly, because she could not get the necessary nutrients from the mother's tuber. Hilling is carried out immediately after the first rain, and in dry weather only loosening can be performed. It is important to remove weeds, as they interfere with the full growth of the plant. After 2-3 weeks, you can make a second crust and carry out another hilling.
Landing in this way in the suburbs is carried out after May 10.
Plant care
Depending on the specific planting method, the nuances of seedling care are determined, but in any case, proper watering, top dressing, hilling and loosening is required. It is equally important to ensure treatment from pests and diseases.
Watering
If the comb or bed method was used, water should be supplied in the row-spacing, and if even - in the holes or continuous. Watering frequency is determined by the amount of rainfall:
- in a dry summer, water once every 2 days, starting from 3 weeks after emergence;
- with heavy rainfall, irrigate as the soil dries.
Particular attention should be paid to watering when tying root crops and their growth.
Harrowing and cultivating
On the 5-6th day after planting, the first harrowing should be carried out, and in the subsequent - every 4-5 days. There is no need for this action when the first shoots appear. When sprouts grow, you can still perform 1-2 harrows. This will become impossible as the plants germinate, so you can move on to loosening.
Loosen the site if necessary after rain, when the soil dries and crusts. In the aisles you can loosen deeply, and in the rows - finer, so as not to harm the fragile seedlings.
Hilling
It is carried out for the first time when the seedling length reaches 12-14 cm, and after - before closing the tops. If a ridge landing was made, during earthing up, the earth needs to be raked by 20-25 cm only from two sides, and with other landing methods, from all sides.
Regardless of the planting technology, when loosening and hilling, it is also important to weed.
Top dressing
For the entire growing season, it is enough to carry out two dressings:
- The first - after the emergence of seedlings. Fertilizer is applied before loosening and hilling. The bush needs to be sprinkled with a nutritious mixture, which consists of 2 handfuls of humus and 2 hours of ammonium nitrate. As top dressing, you can also make ash mixed with 1: 1 earth.
- The second - during flowering. It is carried out before watering in the early period of potato development. The plant must be watered under the root with a solution of 10 liters of water, 2 tbsp. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. nitrofoski.
It is forbidden to apply dressing after flowering.
Pest protection
There are about 60 pests that pose a danger to potatoes. Among them, the most dangerous are:
- Colorado beetle;
- a bear;
- nematode;
- wireworm.
Initially, pests pose a danger to seedlings, sprouts and tops, and later for root crops. To protect your landing from them, you can use two ways:
- Biological. This is a gentle method, which involves planting on a site with potatoes plants that can deter pests. For example, you can plant mattiola, wormwood or marigolds. In addition, in the framework of biological protection, potatoes can be sprinkled with infusion of garlic, wormwood or tomato tops.
Gardeners are in demand for biological products, including Actofit, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide, Bicol.
- Chemical. This method involves the treatment of plants with chemicals. It is considered more effective, but also harmful not only for the crop, but also for people. Such processing is carried out extremely carefully and only until root crops are set.
Harvesting and storage
Harvesting tubers begins when the potato tops dry. In the Moscow Region, as a rule, this period falls in mid-June or early August, since it is the early varieties that are often grown in this region. You should not time with the harvest, because the tubers will lose in volume, become less dense and useful.
For 1-1.5 weeks before harvesting, it is recommended to mow the tops so that the plant spends all its strength directly on ripening root crops. The harvesting process itself is quite time-consuming, since it involves digging up tubers, sorting, processing and determining for storage.
To get the potatoes, the beds need to be dug up, and then to cultivate the earth and extract the fruits. In the case of a smooth planting, you will need to dig out each bush. As soon as all root crops are removed, the site needs to be leveled.
Harvested tubers are sorted. It is necessary to select seed for the next year, as well as remove damaged and diseased potatoes. If plants of different varieties are planted, tubers should be collected and stored separately, since varieties can differ in terms and conditions of storage.
Before sending the vegetable for storage, it should be dried in a warm room. If the potato is intended for use as a seed, it can be laid out in boxes and kept in the sun for landscaping.
Ready-made potatoes can be stored in the cellar or basement, previously stacked in boxes or bags. It is important that the room has good ventilation, and it should not be damp and cold. The optimum temperature is + 4-5 degrees. At least once a week, it is worth sorting out the harvest, removing damaged and rotting potatoes.
Of course, potatoes are the most popular crop grown by many gardeners and summer residents. You can get a good crop in the suburbs, but you need to carefully approach the whole process - from the choice of variety to planting and ending with the date of collection of tubers. In order for potatoes to retain their qualities for a long time, it is also important to take into account the storage rules of the harvested crop.